Ecuador's Western Slope: Choco Foothills & Andean Highlands

Birding Texas & Beyond

Aug 28

10 min read

August 5-13, 2026

Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan ©Oscar Carmona

From August 5-13, we traveled to Ecuador for a scouting trip designed to refine and strengthen our upcoming group itinerary across the Chocó cloud forests and Andean highlands. Our goal was simple: experience each location firsthand, evaluate pacing and logistics, and document the specialty species and signature moments that will define next year’s tour. What unfolded was a week of exceptional birding, dramatic landscapes, and meaningful cultural immersion.

Over the course of the trip, we observed a total of 268 species, representing an impressive cross‑section of Ecuador’s elevational gradients and regional endemics. From the high Andean forests of Zuro Loma to the hummingbird‑rich gardens of Alambi, the legendary antpitta encounters at Refugio Paz de las Aves, and the vibrant foothill reserves of Sendero Frutti, Milpe, Amagusa, and Sacha Guatusa, the western slope delivered an extraordinary diversity of Chocó specialties. The journey then carried us high into the páramo of Antisana National Park, where condors soared over volcanic cliffs and high‑Andean waterfowl, hummingbirds, and raptors added a dramatic finale to the natural history portion of the trip. We concluded with a day exploring Quito’s cultural landmarks — a reminder that understanding a place means appreciating both its biodiversity and its history.

This scouting trip provided invaluable insight into timing, flow, and site selection for next year’s full itinerary. More importantly, it reaffirmed Ecuador as one of the most exceptional birding destinations in the world — a country where every elevation band, every valley, and every forest type offers something new, rare, and unforgettable. The following report summarizes our day‑by‑day experience, key species, and the highlights that will shape the final group tour.

DAY 1: Zuro Loma, Alambi Reserve & Guaycapi Lodge. Our first full day in Ecuador began in the temperate Andean forest above Quito, where cool morning air and sweeping views set the tone for an exciting start to our scouting trip. We arrived at Zuro Loma, a privately managed reserve known for its excellent hummingbird activity and mid‑elevation specialties. The feeders and flowering shrubs were alive with movement. We spent the morning exploring the trails and feeder stations, watching a steady parade of hummingbirds flashing iridescent greens, violets, and blues. Highlights here included Sword-billed Hummingbird, Gorgeted Sunangel, Tyrian Metaltail, Shining Sunbeam, Red-crested Cotinga, Hooded Mountain-Tanager, Pearled Treerunner, Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager, and Mountain Velvetbreast, among many others.

From Zuro Loma we continued to Alambi Reserve, a classic stop on the western slope and one of the most reliable places in Ecuador for close hummingbird photography. The gardens were alive with activity, and we enjoyed extended views of multiple species at arm’s length — a highlight for any birder and a perfect opportunity to compare plumage, behavior, and field marks. The combination of feeders and natural vegetation made this an ideal mid‑day stop before heading deeper into the Chocó region. Among the highlights were close views of White-whiskered Hermit, White-booted Racket-tail, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Fawn-breasted Brilliant, Andean Emerald, Purple-crowned Fairy, Rufous Motmot, White-capped Dipper, and Blue-necked Tanager.

In the afternoon we traveled to Guaycapi Lodge, our base for the next several days. The lodge’s forested surroundings, comfortable accommodations, and excellent hospitality made it an ideal staging point for exploring the northwest. After settling in, we enjoyed birding around the grounds and reviewing the plan for the coming days, excited for the variety of habitats and species ahead. Day one offered a blend of highland forest, foothill transition zones, and some of the country’s most iconic hummingbird hotspots. It was the perfect beginning to our scouting journey.

DAY 2: Refugio Paz de las Aves & Bellavista Cloud Forest. Our second day took us deep into the heart of the Chocó cloud forest, beginning with one of the country’s most iconic birding experiences: Refugio Paz de las Aves. Few places in the world offer such intimate encounters with notoriously elusive species, and the morning did not disappoint. We arrived at dawn— the highlight, of course, was the antpittas. With patience and Rodrigo’s remarkable skill, we enjoyed close, unobstructed views of species that are normally heard far more often than seen. The experience was both thrilling and humbling; a reminder of how unique and fragile these ecosystems are, and how much dedication goes into protecting them. Here we had close views of Giant, Moustached, Chestnut-crowned, and Yellow-breasted Antpittas, Rufous-breasted Antthrush, Ocellated Tapaculo, Andean Cock-of-the rock, and Masked Trogon. After the antpittas, we continued birding along the trails, picking up a variety of Chocó specialties and enjoying the lush, moss‑covered forest. The combination of intimate wildlife encounters and the refuge’s warm hospitality made the morning unforgettable.

By early afternoon we continued up the western slope to Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve, a classic destination known for its rich biodiversity and dramatic scenery. The drive itself offered sweeping views of steep forested valleys, and upon arrival we were immediately immersed in the cool, humid air of the high cloud forest. Bellavista’s feeders and trails provided a completely different set of species from the lower elevations we had visited the day before. The forest here feels ancient; draped in bromeliads, orchids, and mosses — and the birding reflects that sense of depth and complexity. We spent the afternoon exploring the reserve, enjoying both the birds and the peaceful atmosphere. Here we picked up additional species including Golden-headed Quetzal, Green-and-black Fruiteater, Strong-billed Woodcreeper, Pale-eyed Thrush, and Slate-throated Redstart.

As the day wound down, we returned to Guaycapi Lodge, where we reviewed our growing species list and prepared for another full day in the Chocó region. Day two showcased the magic of the cloud forest; intimate encounters, breathtaking scenery, and a remarkable diversity of species that set the tone for the days ahead.

DAY 3: Sendero Frutti Tour, Milpe Bird Sanctuary & Mindo. Day three brought us into the lush, humid foothill forests of the western slope — a dramatic shift from the higher cloud forests of the previous day. These mid‑elevation Chocó habitats are among the most productive birding areas in Ecuador, and the day delivered exactly the kind of diversity we hoped to encounter. We began the morning at Sendero Frutti, a private reserve known for its mix of forest edge, secondary growth, and mature foothill forest. The combination of habitat types made for lively birding right from the start. Among the standout species were Little Tinamou (a mother with two chicks – an exceptional sighting), Black-cheeked Woodpecker, Bronzy Hermit, Golden-olive Woodpecker, Great Antshrike, Red-billed Scythebill, Yellow-rumped Cacique, Pacific Parrotlet, and Dusky-faced Tanager.

As the morning progressed, we continued downslope to Milpe Bird Sanctuary, one of the most reliable sites in Ecuador for foothill specialties. The feeders and fruiting trees were busy, providing close views of several species that can be challenging elsewhere. Milpe’s trails offered a peaceful walk-through classic Chocó foothill habitat, with dense vegetation, filtered light, and the steady background chorus of tropical birds. The contrast with the higher-elevation cloud forest was striking, and it underscored how much diversity can be packed into a single day on the western slope. Highlights included Crested Guan, Choco Toucan, Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, Choco Warbler, Slaty-capped Flycatcher, Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant, Yellow-throated Chlorospingus, and Speckled Nightingale-Thrush.

In the afternoon, we continued to Mindo, a lively town surrounded by forest and known for its birding culture. Mindo also offered opportunities for photography, snacks, and a relaxed break before returning to Guaycapi Lodge. Notable species here included Pacific Antwren, Choco Tyrannulet, Hook-billed Kite, Sunbittern, Torrent Tyrannulet, Mouse-gray Flycatcher, and Ruddy Pigeon. Day three showcased the richness of the Chocó that kept us engaged from morning to afternoon.

Long-wattled Umbrellabird ©Oscar Carmona

DAY 4: Umbrellabird Lek & Finca La Victoriana. The day began before sunrise as we made our way toward the Long-wattled Umbrellabird lek. Few birds in the world are as striking or as emblematic of the Chocó region and visiting an active lek is an unforgettable experience for any birder. We arrived in the cool, dim light of early morning, the forest still quiet except for the distant calls of awakening birds. As we approached the lek area, the deep, resonant calls of the umbrellabirds echoed through the trees — a sound that feels both prehistoric and electrifying. Their oversized crests, long wattles, and slow, deliberate movements gave us a rare and intimate look at one of Ecuador’s most iconic species. The experience served as a powerful reminder of why the Chocó region is so important for conservation. Our morning highlights included Long-wattled Umbrellabird (one of the signature species of the trip), Pacific Hornero, Golden-winged Manakin, Common Tody-Flycatcher, Chivi Vireo, Yellow-throated Toucan, Variable Seedeater, Masked Water-Tyrant, Glistening-green Tanager, Club-winged Manakin, Choco Brushfinch, and Double-toothed Kite.

We returned to Guaycapi Lodge for lunch and spent a couple of hours birding around the property. Highlights included Sickled-winged Guan, Red-headed Barbet, Toucan Barbet, Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, Red-billed Parrot, and White-winged Brushfinch. Other species found thoughout our stay at the lodge included Rufous-bellied Nighthawk, Common Potoo, Orange-bellied Euphonia, Masked Flowerpiercer, Black-winged Saltator, Golden-naped Tanager, Flame-faced Tanager, Flame-rumped Tanager, Black-capped Tanager, Golden Tanager, Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Common Pauraque, Speckled Hummingbird and Violet-tailed Sylph - among many other hummingbirds.

In mid-afternoon, we continued to Finca La Victoriana, a productive mid‑elevation site with a mix of forest, gardens, and open areas. The change in habitat brought a new suite of species, and the birding remained lively throughout the afternoon. Highlights in this location included Andean Cock-of-the-rock, Pale-mandibled Aracari, Sparkling Violetear, Blue-necked Tanager, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Green-crowned Brilliant, Laughing Falcon, Smooth-billed Ani, and Western Emerald. By late‑afternoon, we returned to Guaycapi Lodge, the day had been a perfect blend of high‑impact birding and steady productivity — exactly what we hoped to achieve during this scouting trip.

Close-up view of a Long-billed Thrasher perched on a dense thorny bush — Orange -breasted Fruiteater ©Oscar Carmona

DAY 5: Amagusa Reserve & Sacha Guatusa. This day took us into one of the most biodiverse pockets of the Chocó region: Amagusa Reserve, a mid‑elevation stronghold of endemics and one of the most rewarding birding sites on the western slope. Amagusa is known for its exceptional diversity, and mixed flocks appeared throughout the morning, moving quickly through the canopy and midstory. The variety was impressive, with brilliant flashes of color weaving through the trees as we worked our way along the trails. The reserve’s combination of mature forest, regenerating habitat, and fruiting trees created a steady rhythm of sightings that kept us engaged from the moment we stepped onto the property. Highlights included White-throated Quail-Dove, Dark-backed Wood-Quail, Collared Trogon, Rose-faced Parrot, Black Solitaire, Zeledon’s Antbird, Tawny-bellied Hermit, White-throated Daggerbill, Uniform Antshrike, One-colored Becard, Cinnamon Becard, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, Moss-backed Tanager, Barred Becard, Black-chinned Mountain Tanager, Beryl-spangled Tanager, Swallow Tanager, and Golden-collared Honeycreeper.

By early afternoon, we transitioned to Sacha Guatusa, a nearby site that complements Amagusa with slightly different habitat and species composition. The change in elevation and forest structure brought new opportunities, and we enjoyed a productive afternoon working through mixed flocks, hummingbird activity, and forest-edge species. The birding here was steady and rewarding, offering a nice contrast to the more intense pace of Amagusa. Highlights included Common Squirrel-Cuckoo, Barred Hawk, Gray-and-gold Tanager, Orange-fronted Barbet, Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, Brown-billed Scythebill, Purple Honeycreeper, White-bearded Manakin, Purple-chested Hummingbird, Emerald Tanager, and Green Honeycreeper. We returned to Guaycapi Lodge in the late afternoon, tired but satisfied after a full day of productive birding.

DAY 6: Antisana National Park & Quito. This day carried us high into the Andes for a full day at Antisana National Park, one of Ecuador’s most spectacular high‑elevation landscapes and a striking contrast to the lush Chocó forests we had explored earlier in the week. The transition from humid foothills to open páramo felt almost like entering a different country — wide horizons, crisp air, and sweeping volcanic scenery dominated the morning as we ascended toward the reserve. We arrived to clear skies and cool temperatures, ideal conditions for both scenery and birding. The vast grasslands and rugged cliffs of Antisana create perfect habitat for some of the Andes’ most iconic species, and it didn’t take long before we spotted our first Andean Condor soaring effortlessly above the valley. Watching these enormous birds glide across the backdrop of the Antisana volcano was a highlight and a moment we know will resonate strongly with next year’s group.

We spent time exploring several key areas within the park, each offering a slightly different mix of habitats — from open grasslands to rocky slopes to patches of high‑elevation scrub. Waterbirds were active on the lakes and wetlands, providing excellent looks at species that are otherwise difficult to encounter elsewhere on the itinerary. The scenery alone would have made the day memorable, but the birding elevated it even further. Highlights included Andean Teal, Andean Duck, Andean Lapwing, Ecuadorian Hillstar, Shining Sunbeam, Giant Hummingbird, Great Sapphirewing, Silvery Grebe, Andean Ibis, Slate-colored Coot, Cinereous Conebill, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Stout-billed and Chestnut-winged Cinclodes, Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant, Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle, Caranculated Caracara, and Tawny Antpitta.

We returned to Quito in the late afternoon, satisfied and energized after a day of big skies, big birds, and unforgettable views — a perfect blend of scenery, specialty species, and high‑Andean atmosphere.

DAY 7: Quito City Exploration. Even though the final day of this scouting trip will not be part of next year’s official group itinerary, we always make time to explore the cultural and historical heart of the places we visit. Experiencing local history, architecture, and daily life adds depth and context to the natural landscapes we spend our days birding. With no formal guiding scheduled, we took the opportunity to enjoy a relaxed but full day of cultural sightseeing, photography, and urban birding visiting sites such as Mitad del Mundo, El Panecillo, Parque Metropolitano Guangüiltagua, and Quito’s historic center including the impressive Basilica del Voto Nacional. These stops enriched our understanding of Ecuador and providing a meaningful balance to the week’s birding.

Cultural immersion is an important part of our travel philosophy, helping us connect more fully with the country and its people. Day seven provided a wonderful balance to the trip: a chance to rest, explore, and appreciate the cultural richness of Quito while still enjoying light birding and photography. It was a fitting conclusion to the scouting portion of the tour and a valuable reminder of how much Ecuador offers beyond its forests and mountains.

DAY 8: Departure from Quito. Our final morning in Quito marked the end of a rewarding and highly productive scouting trip. After a full week exploring the Chocó cloud forests, foothills, high Andes, and the cultural heart of the capital, we prepared for our flight home with a sense of accomplishment and excitement for next year’s full group tour. The diversity we experienced over just eight days underscored why Ecuador remains one of the most exceptional birding destinations in the world.

As we headed to the airport, we carried with us a deeper appreciation for the habitats, communities, and cultural richness that shaped this itinerary. The scouting trip provided clarity, inspiration, and confidence in the structure of the upcoming tour, and it reaffirmed the importance of thoughtful pacing and meaningful experiences throughout the journey. We said our goodbyes to Ecuador — grateful for the hospitality, the landscapes, and the unforgettable birding that made this scouting trip such a success. We also look forward to exploring the Amazon lowland region of Ecuador. Stay tuned for more!